Posted August 21, 2010 Easy job, if you have some tools and dont have your thumb in the middle of the palm :laugh: Tools required: - Bike key to remove the seat - 12mm wrench to remove the fuel tank - Long nose pliers, will help you a lot - Two clamp pliers to plug the fuel lines, feed line, and return line - 17mm wrench to remove the fuel hose from fuel rail - 10mm key, to take away coils - Fuel line seals, in case you need them, they are bacically aluminium washers - "Philips head" screwdriver, to remove the airbox lid and airbox from throttle bodies - Clean airfilter, you may want to change it at the same time - Sparkplug wrench, that what may be in your bikes tool kit will do also - New plugs Here are the photos and How to. Take of your seat, and remove these bolts to get the fuel tank loose. Disconnect fuelpump connector, its on the left side of the bike, on the side. Lift the tank from the back of it so that you can reach the fuel line connectors, breather hoses, returnline and that fuel rail connection on the left side. This is the return line, longnose pliers will help you. Clamp the hose Clamp the fuel feed hose, and open the connector with 17mm key, there will be some fuel coming out, be careful. Dont loose the seals, you may use them again. These are the breather hoses, attached to the bottom of the tank, may be tight, just twiggle them and they will come out, no clamps here. Now you can take away the tank, pull it littlebit backwards and lift from the front, put it somewhere safe. Then you see the airbox, take away these coils, 10mm key, dont loose these "nuts". Unplug the intake temp and pressure sensor, you see also the screws ("philips head") that holds the airbox lid, open them, dont drop any. Then take away the lid. Take away the aircleaner, i have a K&N, it was dirty so i washed it (and oiled) Take away these "cones" three philips head screws each, DONT drop any, they shouldnt if the setup is original. 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 21, 2010 Story continues. Take away breather hoses that comes to airbox, one is under the front of it One is on the rigt side bottom, longnose pliers will help you Lift the bottom of the box away, you have to remove this hose to get to the plug wires If you want to be sure that you dont mix the wires, take them out and change the plugs one by one. DONT pull from the wire, only from the rubber "hat", twiggle them if they are stuck. If you have a compressed air avaliable, plow the plug holes BEFORE you take the old plugs out, if there is some dirt, it wont drop in the cylinder when you take away the plug. I used magnetic plug wrench with some joints, now take out the plugs one by one and put new ones in, dont drop them, tight them firmly, i dont remember the torque, i have it in my hands :laugh: I changed platiniums to iridiums, should last long. After you have changed all the plugs, just put all together on reverse order, be sure that thse plug wires goes all the way to the bottom, you can feel when they are attaching on the plugs, you can use some silicon spray if they feel too tight. Remember to attach all the hoses etc, be very careful with those fuel lines! I am not responsible if you ##ck this up somehow When you are done, enjoy, you have done it by your self 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 21, 2010 (edited) Lost some photos of the previous posts, here they are. I used this magnetic plug wrench, with some extension and flexible joint, with this, its easy to take out the plugs and put new ones in without danger to drop them. When you have your tank off, you can see the expansion tank of the cooling system, you may want to clean it if it looks dirty. You can see also these vacuum connectors (plugged) what you use when you calibrate your throttlebodies, mine looks untouched.... Maybe needs to be checked.... When you wash your washable aircleaner, dont let the dirty water get to the clean side of the filter, mine sitted in the water for a some time (there was plain dish wash liquid and just water, will do the trick) then just wash it under water, dont "rape" it, you may use compressed air to dry it, WITH YOUR OWN RISK... I know what im doing. Edited August 21, 2010 by Maintenanceman 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 21, 2010 Thanks Henri,very informative and well photographed... 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 22, 2010 Awesome. I was thinking it's about time I did mine and now there really is no excuse. Cheers. What could possibly go wrong .......... 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 23, 2010 Awesome. I was thinking it's about time I did mine and now there really is no excuse. Cheers. What could possibly go wrong .......... Fill her up, just before you have to take of the fuel tank :laugh: 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 23, 2010 Good write up well done..... That plug looks like the mixture is a little rich to me 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 23, 2010 (edited) Good write up well done..... That plug looks like the mixture is a little rich to me Thanks. Hmm, phone quality photo doesnt show it just right, colour is like light brown, like coffee with milk. At least not too lean After those Chinese "cans" havent been on dyno, with Yoshimuras that PC map was made, and these "Chinese" seems to be more open. Soon will install air/fuel ratio meter.... Edited August 23, 2010 by Maintenanceman 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted February 1, 2013 Henri......................As usual great pictures and excellent procedures................................however I have successfully propped the tank up with a bit of wood without disconnecting any fuel lines or connections both on the x and the Blackbird The larger "bit of wood" is for lifting and holding the rear of the tank ........this I use on the Blackbird but not sure about the X11 The smaller sophisticated tool number AE 987654321 Tank Lifter I have used on both Bikes!!!!!!!!!!!!! no disconnections and no unplugging 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) Just a little thing to be aware of that could turn out to be expensive. When re-fitting the tank make sure you have the rubber washers the correct way around. If you put the thin ones at the bottom you run the risk of wearing the tank away as it will rub against the rear shock mount. I found this out to my cost a while back - needed a small tack to pass the MOT. Great guide though - really helpful. Edited August 28, 2013 by mike 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 29, 2013 Brilliant! Well done Mr Henri Haynes. You just don't get more of a Finish name than............................Henri Haynes! 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 2, 2017 Hi, Great instructions but the images are not shown anymore. Now it only says " Please update your account to enable 3rd party hosting" :/ Is it possible to upload those to somewhere else? 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 5, 2017 Omg, that shaissebucket wants $ 399,99 yearly so that i can share those photos 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 5, 2017 You can see those photos here http://s29.photobucket.com/user/Maintenanceman/library/X-11 Plug Change?sort=2&page=1 Not private folder. 1 Share this post Link to post
Posted May 13, 2018 (edited) I've grabbed Henri's description and married up the photos from his August post, then created a pdf to basically show the thread as it would have been originally (assuming I've married the right photos to the right instruction ) Happy to share if anyone wants, but I would want someone to check I really do have the right photos for each step Edited May 13, 2018 by PaulUK 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted May 13, 2018 1 hour ago, Mick said: Nice one Paul, get it uploaded. Not sure how I can do that Mick - I can't attach it due to the 0.22MB file upload limit - the pdf I made is 1.9MB 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted January 9, 2019 Hi, Did you loosen the "service check bolt" to release the fuel pressure before removing/disconnecting the fuel hoses? Or is the fuel pressure basically released as soon as you unplug the hoses, even though the clamps are set? If there is fuel in the tank does it flow empty when fuel feed hose is disconnected and clamp pliers removed or does it still stay in the tank(some fuel still in hoses coming out)? If I would example want to drain the tank and change the fuel filter (do i need to drain the tank for that?). Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post
