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Bolt Sheared in Front Caliper

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Just noticed:mad:

Thought it was just missing but upon closer inspection i noticed its sheared the head off:rolleyes:

any advise welcome:eek:

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Which bolt, is it one of the two that secures the caliper to the bracket or the one that holds the brake pads in?? If it is one of the two that secures the caliper to the bracket i would probably try a stud extractor on it, ie drill it out and use a stud extractor to unscrew the bolt. Alternative would be to remove the front wheel then remove the caliper, that would allow you access to the bolt shaft, although iam not sure the front wheel will come off without both brake calipers being free, someone else will need to help me out here.

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sorry

its one of the bolts holding caliper on

will try stud extractor on it

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make sure it is well soaked in penetrating oil and try to use the largest diameter stud extractor for that size bolt. Also if poss try and gently heat the bracket in the hope that the alluminium will expand faster than the steel bolt, thus making it easier to remove. It is a basic problem with using differential metals. When they are dismantled they should be reassembled with a copper grease (Coppaslip) to ease removal, this is only good housekeeping for the future. I use it on anything that needs to be removed at some stage in the future for servicing. Remove your front mudguard first off to avoid any damage to it.

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dont think bikes bein looked after to be honest

all bolts are all furry with oxidisation

tbh i am dreading trying to open anything

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Which caliper is it and which bolt ?

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any advise welcome:eek:

Yeah, don't ride the bike till ya fix it:eek:

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Which caliper is it and which bolt ?

right side

as ya sit on it

bottom bolt

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Yeah, don't ride the bike till ya fix it:eek:

:eek::eek:

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off side caliper bolts to the fork, the bracket is smaller as it doesnt have the gubbins attatched to it that the near side has, think the bolt will have to removed wth the caliper in situ because the broken bolt won't allow the caliper to be drawn backwards with the pads removed.

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Where the bolt has snapped, has it left any kind of step on the bolt. IE, is there any chance you can put a flat blade screwdriver on it and gently tap it round to undoo it?

Good luck.;)

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Unless you feel really competent with doing the repair i would take it to an engineer to remove the offending bolt shaft, a few years back i tried to remove an exhaust stud on a gsx and the alloy around the bolt just split as i wound the stud extractor in. I even used the smallest extractor as it`s only a m6 bolt.

That should have read good engineer not someone who thinks they are like the one i took my front wheel to last year to remove a snapped disk bolt :BangHead:

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OK here's an Idea , it may work but room and space may not allow it ,

OK here we go , undo the other bolt , Undo the disk bolts from that side disk , undo the wheel spindle and remove as far as to let the disk drop away , rotate the wheel to allow the caliper to go in-wards between spokes , brake hoses may hamper this you may have to remove them and bleed later.

If you can get the caliper in-wards even an inch or so It may leave enough room to get grips on the bolt to undo as I suspect it was snapped by some ham fisted bugger doing it up.

Good Luck

Edited by x11r
spelling
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If you can access the broken stud, weld a nut on to it, and unscrew. The heat produced will help the process.

Pete

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If you can access the broken stud, weld a nut on to it, and unscrew. The heat produced will help the process.

Pete

You beat me to it Pete,used this method a few times, never fails.

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Thanks a lot guys. Throttle cable snapped on bike on thursday.so i gave up and left it into garage for a full service. Again thanks a million for all the advice.

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Cor you are having a run of bad luck, best to find the issues now rather than in the middle of summer on a nice ride out

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Cor you are having a run of bad luck, best to find the issues now rather than in the middle of summer on a nice ride out

your tellin me:(

I gave them a list of things to do

getting new cluch cable whilst there at it lol

big list of jobs for them

I want it back perfect:D

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When you get it back, go round everywhere you can with good old WD40.

then spend a quiet morning undoing bolts, one at a time and WD or copper grease them back into place. Make sure you torque them up properly though, that's probably why your caliper bolt sheared in the first place.

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When you get it back, go round everywhere you can with good old WD40.

then spend a quiet morning undoing bolts, one at a time and WD or copper grease them back into place. Make sure you torque them up properly though, that's probably why your caliper bolt sheared in the first place.

thats on the list for the bike shop to do

every bolt,cable and pivot point greased and oiled

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thats on the list for the bike shop to do

every bolt,cable and pivot point greased and oiled

Not being sinical, well perhaps I am, but do you actually think they will do it?

TLC and maintainance is part of the deal of owning bikes. Doing the job your self can save a whole load of pain later...and money too. :)

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Not being sinical, well perhaps I am, but do you actually think they will do it?

TLC and maintainance is part of the deal of owning bikes. Doing the job your self can save a whole load of pain later...and money too. :)

believe me they will do it

i am just establishing a base point so i know from then on i can perform all maintenace myself

rather than 3 weeks down the line and finding another seized bolt:cool:

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believe me they will do it

i am just establishing a base point so i know from then on i can perform all maintenace myself

rather than 3 weeks down the line and finding another seized bolt:cool:

Fair enough. :)

I replace my caliper bolts ( and any other bolt) with stanless allen head ones, fitted with copper slip. never had any problems. I hate these crap bolts bike have fitted. I really can't see the reason they do this? Stainless bolts look so much better too.

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