Kev_D

Regulator/rectifier

11 posts in this topic

Hi everyone,

 

Recently my RR gave up the ghost, I had bought one from Jaws as a spare a while back so set about the task of shortening part of the harness to suit.

Unfortunately when doing this, way too easily the black cable pulled out of the RR and rendered it an expensive mistake.

 

Since then I found a company that sold an X11 specific one.

I can report that the build quality seems very good and that the wires were notable thicker than the Jaws one.

Even better was that there was no cutting of any wires, and that it also came with a spare stator connector and pins if they needed changing due to a meltdown or what have you.

 

The company is called Moto-electrical

 

Their X11 page is here, reasonable pricing too I thought

 

https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/product/makes/honda/motorcycles/cb1100sf/2000/1137cc/

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Hi Kev

I have seen the motoelectrical before, the trouble is so many electrical parts for sale on the net are of unknown origin (read cheap Chinese crap) so unless motoelectrical are going to offer a good warranty and I believe jaws do offer a warranty ? I would stick with the Jaws solution.

I purchased an FH020AA shindengen regulator rectifier from a well known BMW spares company and the cable, connectors etc off the net, cost me approx £100 in total but well worth it.

Someone will be a long who is vastly more experienced with X11 nuances than I am.  

 

Edited by Bmac109

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Hi Bmac,

 

Just for future reference they offer a one year warranty on the regulator. 

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Hi Kev

Thank you for the update greatly appreciated I think that is the same as the Jaws warranty.

I thought about the FH020AA route for a while before I took the plunge as it required me to weld a plate on the sub frame. hence the diy welds :rolleyes:

The Live and neutral outputs now have extra covering so as protect against possible chafing.

4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg1.jpg3.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Bmac109
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Nice one mac, that looks properly substantial!

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best bit of welding on the sub frame

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One of diodes had gone on my r/r after a few of the coils had burnt out on the stator. Purchased an RMStator r/r from Moto Electrical for about £90. It did look good, appeared well built with nice thick wires. Connected up to the new stator and it was giving 14v at the battery at tick over. Added revs to check it was functioning correctly and expected an increase to around 14.5v or a little more. However, the voltage actually dropped as the rpm increased to about 13.2v at 5,000. Not expected and not good. Retested a few times and got the same result.

 

Phoned Moto Electrical for advice. Pleasant enough but did not acknowledge it was an issue, suggesting that I take the bike for a ride and if all is well, then no problems. That's not how I do things. I try not to risk the health and well-being of my beloved X with components that are known to be iffy! Returned the r/r without issue and received a refund within a few days. No return on postage however so still out of pocket!

 

Had a chat with my local mechanic when getting tyres changed and he said that it was a problem he had heard of before on cheap r/r's - diode connections wrong within the unit. 

 

Ended up fitting a second hand r/r which works just fine but will probably replace (when I next have my rack dismantled) with a mosfet from electrexworld and shorten/lengthen wiring as required from a Honda specified unit.

 

 

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I've purchased the RR690 from Electrexworld. Mosfet design and made in the UK. They have a few videos on line for support. Real people answering phone and emails.

 

I'd initially been looking at a different model r/r with shorter cables but Electrexworld raised a doubt about whether that one could cope with the voltage drop which could occur with a longer run (increased resistance) between the stator and and the r/r. They suggested the RR690 which comes with 75cm leads (both to stator and to battery) as standard. The cable length on the OEM r/r is 95cm. However, I'd replaced the burnt out OEM stator with a JMP unit which came with a much longer lead (probably just a Blackbird unit which appears to have longer leads as standard) so there was no problem connecting and actually have excess cable. Red and black power cables connect straight to battery rather than using a plug in connector (this may get shortened). The existing connector is just taped up. The r/r comes with a thick mounting plate/heat sink with holes for few mounting options.

 

I fitted the r/r as is without modifying the cables to test it out and in the garage the set up works fine. 12.6v at idle. Unlike the OEM r/r which climbed up gradually to 14+ volts as the revs increased, this unit pumps out 14.28v from 2,000 or so rpm up and doesn't go above that mark. I can only assume, with my limited knowledge, that this is a good thing. If your low speed cruising in 5th, you'll still be getting full charge at the battery. Someone may tell me otherwise!

 

Did a few miles on the bike yesterday and nothing appears to have melted! My heated grips finally work properly too, at last. Think the stator must have been on its way out for a while. 

 

 

 

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Well done Tim getting the bike up and running.

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Been Getting my Subframe lots of brackets, bits n pieces , pannier frames headlamp brackets etc powder coated over the last month , obviously had to disconnect RR to remove everything , on disconnecting the stator plug one of the spades has got very hot due to corrosion , phoned electrexworld and new connectors arrived the next day , Like you say Tim helpful people on the other end of the phone.

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very useful to know thanks for input

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