Mick

Bike won't start

36 posts in this topic

Hi Chalks, try taking the front off the headlight, switching the ignition on, then gently move the wires therein. Worked for me once.

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I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago, would not start at first and I knew it was not the battery,  after messing about a bit it managed to start but when I gave it some throttle the rev counter stopped working and the speedo needle started to slowly go round plus the indicators would not work. Checked all connectors and fuses which all seemed OK  and clean looking, anyway after another hour of fiddling about I decided to give every connector block and fuse block a good squirt of electrical cleaner and to my surprise everything worked. I can honestly say I have no idea as to what I did cured the fault, obviously it was a duff connection somewhere but everything I checked looked clean and corrosion free :biggrin3d:  :biggrin3d:  

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Basics with a volt meter first, I would hard wire (temporary) the clutch and sidestand switches and as above unplug / clean and plug back in every connector you can get to, best of luck as these kind of problems are very frustrating.

I went to Brick lane in London the other nice warm evening and got back on the bike and nothing! So I know how it feels, jump start and new battery seems to have resolved it for now..... these are great bikes but as in all things age catches up!

Edited by edharrison
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I'm beginning to regret buying the old turd.

 

It doesn't what brand you buy its always the same, things age and corrode, people slag off Harleys but the truth is they aren't any less reliable than any other brand I have had to be fair, I had a lot of problems with my two and the main reason was because of age, you end up replacing bits and pieces until the bike runs great, so bare with it your get the bike running and it will be great, sometimes you can get that bike that keeps breaking down, I have had some Yamaha bikes like that.

 

Electrics always baffle me, but the principle is quite straight forward, check the cheap things first before you check the expensive things, and at the same times your be carrying out a electrical service on the bike.

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What appears to be a good battery often isn't!

 

I'd start with a new one and work from there.

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I agree with eddy a new battery would be a good start, you would be suprised how much trouble a crappy battery can cause.

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My battery was showing 14v still when dead - amps are what starts the bike, load testing is the only way to be sure, yaesu (spelt rightish) can be bought for £34.50 delivered so a cheap good start.

Edited by edharrison
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"Yuasa"  yes I brought one of those ,a bloody good buy .

 

Chalks if you want a wiring diagram why not become a benefactor with a donation then you can download the manual ?

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I managed to find a wiring diagram on google images under CB1100SF.

 

Battery and all connections were fine.

 

Traced all wires to and from the ECU, continuity all good.

 

I've put my balls on the chopping block and ordered a used lock kit with ECU.

 

Once fitted it started first click.

 

Yippee, it lives again, thanks for all your input and advise guys.

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Sorry for the spelling mistakes, still celebrating! 

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Great result, now go enjoy!

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