Maintenanceman

How to, remove the fuel tank and change spark plugs ,air filter etc.

27 posts in this topic

Nice write-up. I might be using this at the weekend so I can go in and find out if my bike is restricted.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jasmack - The service check bolt is for relieving the pressure post fuel pump to the fuel injectors and to allow attachment of a tool for measuring pressure without disconnecting everything.  Yes, when you start undoing the banjo bolts, this is going to relieve pressure the same.  However I'd not rely on crimped lines to retain fuel at pressure, this is likely to result in a fine jet which is far more dangerous than a larger amount of free flowing fuel.  If the bike has been running recently, I'd open/close the fuel filler cap, relieve pressure post fuel pump then crimp.

 

I'm working on an X-11 that's been sat idle for best part of a decade.  I've done it slightly different to Maintenanceman, as focused on cleaning up the tank and avoiding replacement of what he's referred to as seals, these are crush washers and really shouldn't be reused, esp. for fuel lines.  Also note the 'packing base' the rubber gasket piece between tank and fuel filter assembly is also a replacement on refit item.

 

Had a couple of litres of old fuel, instead of messing around with siphoning, I disconnected the fuel return line from the injector side, it's just long enough to direct the fuel to a standard petrol can with a fuel funnel attached.  The width of the tube is less, but you'll still spill some fuel onto that rag you remembered to use. However this doesn't remove all of the fuel.

 

Normal flow = tank --> pre-filter --> pump --> filter --> injectors

The fuel in an upright tank has two ways of coming out, the fuel line or the return line.  The fuel has to pass through the pump and filter to get out via the fuel line and will stop as soon as it falls below the level of the pump pre-filter.  Via the return line it'll stop at around the same level but not have to traverse the rest.  Whichever way, you'll have a large coffee mug of fuel in the tank, plenty to blow yourself up with :)

 

As mentioned above, I disconnected the fuel line and breathers tank side.  Working outside, removed the fuel pump assembly.  If the fuel is good and it's a quick fit of a new filter, you could just put the tank to one side - outside.

 

Draining it 100% is a pain due to the internal structure of the tank, but any crap is going to be spread around the tank and return to gum up your pre-filter on refill.  Removing the fuel filler cap helps, but not the whole story as it's not the highest/lowest point.  Removed as much as possible, then (with the tank upside down) used paper towels to soak up remaining, leaving the tank to air outside.

 

The fuel pump assembly forms a bowl that holds any crap at the base in a lower flow region with what looks like a steel scourer, the pre-filter sits above this - really good idea to clean both.  Didn't replace my filter, just back-flushed it by attaching a length of 8mm hose and sucking/blowing and siphon action to get water through (flow rate was free flowing).

 

Picture of the fuel filter assembly on removal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now