Maintenanceman

How to, remove the fuel tank and change spark plugs ,air filter etc.

24 posts in this topic

Easy job, if you have some tools and dont have your thumb in the middle of the palm :laugh:

Tools required:

- Bike key to remove the seat :)

- 12mm wrench to remove the fuel tank

- Long nose pliers, will help you a lot

- Two clamp pliers to plug the fuel lines, feed line, and return line

- 17mm wrench to remove the fuel hose from fuel rail

- 10mm key, to take away coils

- Fuel line seals, in case you need them, they are bacically aluminium washers

- "Philips head" screwdriver, to remove the airbox lid and airbox from throttle bodies

- Clean airfilter, you may want to change it at the same time

- Sparkplug wrench, that what may be in your bikes tool kit will do also

- New plugs

Here are the photos and How to.

Take of your seat, and remove these bolts to get the fuel tank loose.

16082010370.jpg

Disconnect fuelpump connector, its on the left side of the bike, on the side.

16082010367.jpg

Lift the tank from the back of it so that you can reach the fuel line connectors, breather hoses, returnline and that fuel rail connection on the left side.

This is the return line, longnose pliers will help you.

16082010369.jpg

Clamp the hose

16082010368.jpg

Clamp the fuel feed hose, and open the connector with 17mm key, there will be some fuel coming out, be careful.

Dont loose the seals, you may use them again.

16082010366.jpg

These are the breather hoses, attached to the bottom of the tank, may be tight, just twiggle them and they will come out, no clamps here.

16082010363.jpg

Now you can take away the tank, pull it littlebit backwards and lift from the front, put it somewhere safe.

Then you see the airbox, take away these coils, 10mm key, dont loose these "nuts".

16082010364.jpg

Unplug the intake temp and pressure sensor, you see also the screws ("philips head") that holds the airbox lid, open them, dont drop any. Then take away the lid.

16082010360.jpg

Take away the aircleaner, i have a K&N, it was dirty so i washed it (and oiled)

16082010359.jpg

Take away these "cones" three philips head screws each, DONT drop any, they shouldnt if the setup is original.

16082010358.jpg

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Story continues.

Take away breather hoses that comes to airbox, one is under the front of it

16082010355.jpg

One is on the rigt side bottom, longnose pliers will help you

16082010354.jpg

Lift the bottom of the box away, you have to remove this hose to get to the plug wires

If you want to be sure that you dont mix the wires, take them out and change the plugs one by one.

DONT pull from the wire, only from the rubber "hat", twiggle them if they are stuck.

16082010342.jpg

If you have a compressed air avaliable, plow the plug holes BEFORE you take the old plugs out, if there is some dirt, it wont drop in the cylinder when you take away the plug.

16082010343.jpg

I used magnetic plug wrench with some joints, now take out the plugs one by one and put new ones in, dont drop them, tight them firmly, i dont remember the torque, i have it in my hands :laugh:

I changed platiniums to iridiums, should last long.

16082010347.jpg

After you have changed all the plugs, just put all together on reverse order, be sure that thse plug wires goes all the way to the bottom, you can feel when they are attaching on the plugs, you can use some silicon spray if they feel too tight.

Remember to attach all the hoses etc, be very careful with those fuel lines!

I am not responsible if you ##ck this up somehow :)

When you are done, enjoy, you have done it by your self :)

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Lost some photos of the previous posts, here they are.

I used this magnetic plug wrench, with some extension and flexible joint, with this, its easy to take out the plugs and put new ones in without danger to drop them.

16082010345.jpg

16082010346.jpg

When you have your tank off, you can see the expansion tank of the cooling system, you may want to clean it if it looks dirty.

16082010361.jpg

You can see also these vacuum connectors (plugged) what you use when you calibrate your throttlebodies, mine looks untouched.... Maybe needs to be checked....

16082010362.jpg

When you wash your washable aircleaner, dont let the dirty water get to the clean side of the filter, mine sitted in the water for a some time (there was plain dish wash liquid and just water, will do the trick) then just wash it under water, dont "rape" it, you may use compressed air to dry it, WITH YOUR OWN RISK... I know what im doing.

16082010350.jpg

Edited by Maintenanceman
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Thanks Henri,very informative and well photographed...

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Awesome. I was thinking it's about time I did mine and now there really is no excuse. Cheers.

What could possibly go wrong ..........

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Awesome. I was thinking it's about time I did mine and now there really is no excuse. Cheers.

What could possibly go wrong ..........

Fill her up, just before you have to take of the fuel tank :laugh:

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Good write up well done.....

That plug looks like the mixture is a little rich to me

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Good write up well done.....

That plug looks like the mixture is a little rich to me

Thanks.

Hmm, phone quality photo doesnt show it just right, colour is like light brown, like coffee with milk. At least not too lean :)

After those Chinese "cans" havent been on dyno, with Yoshimuras that PC map was made, and these "Chinese" seems to be more open. Soon will install air/fuel ratio meter....

Edited by Maintenanceman

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Henri......................As usual great pictures and excellent procedures................................however

 

 

 

I have successfully propped the tank up with a bit of wood without disconnecting any fuel lines or connections both on the x and the Blackbird

 

The larger "bit of wood" is for lifting and holding the rear of the tank ........this I use on the Blackbird but not sure about the X11

The smaller sophisticated tool number AE 987654321 Tank Lifter

 

I have used on both Bikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no disconnections and no unplugging

 

 

post-1482-0-90366200-1359750803_thumb.jpg

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Just a little thing to be aware of that could turn out to be expensive.   When re-fitting the tank make sure you have the rubber washers the correct way around.  If you put the thin ones at the bottom you run the risk of wearing the tank away as it will rub against the rear shock mount.  I found this out to my cost a while back - needed a small tack to pass the MOT.

Great guide though - really helpful.

Edited by mike
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Brilliant! Well done Mr Henri Haynes.

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Brilliant! Well done Mr Henri Haynes.

You just don't get more of a Finish name than............................Henri Haynes! :muttley:

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This has been great thank you

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Very very usefull !

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Hi,

 

Great instructions but the images are not shown anymore.

 

Now it only says " Please update your account to enable 3rd party hosting" :/

 

Is it possible to upload those to somewhere else?

 

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I will check out that

 

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Omg, that shaissebucket wants $ 399,99 yearly so that i can share those photos :blink:

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Fook them:hmh:

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Posted (edited)

I've grabbed Henri's description and married up the photos from his August post, then created a pdf to basically show the thread as it would have been originally (assuming I've married the right photos to the right instruction ;))

 

Happy to share if anyone wants, but I would want someone to check I really do have the right photos for each step

Edited by PaulUK

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Nice one Paul, get it uploaded.

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1 hour ago, Mick said:

Nice one Paul, get it uploaded.

 

Not sure how I can do that Mick - I can't attach it due to the 0.22MB file upload limit - the pdf I made is 1.9MB

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Post it on "YouTube" and put the link on here.

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