drive chain

[Guest tinhook]

ok, as my reputation is already in ruins, i need help adjusting my chain. i have got the correct `give` in the chain, no tight spots and according to the marks on the adjusters, both are even, why is it that i have a slight wobble when a straight edge is against the rear wheel? is this ok or am i worrying too much? i cant afford to take it to a dealer to adjust the chain for me so any ideas, tips or willing volunteers? thanking you in advance, jim.

[fast_eddy 712]

Make sure that the straight edge is perfectly parallel to the front and trust that, those marks are a guide only, mass produced items can be miles out.

Make sure you check the tension of it with someone of similar weight to your self sat on the bike.

[Guest tinhook]

Make sure that the straight edge is perfectly parallel to the front and trust that, those marks are a guide only, mass produced items can be miles out.

Make sure you check the tension of it with someone of similar weight to your self sat on the bike.

yikes, i never thought about having someone sitting on the bike, last chain i adjusted was before i part-exed my zx9r for an africa twin, geezer told me my chain was way too tight. going to get my wife to sit on the bike later, she`s not exactly similar in weight, but better than nothing. i cant thank you enough for all the help you and this site has given me, it is without a doubt, the best and most instructive non-porn site i can think of. cheers eddy, i owe you a pint and a glass of the good stuff. jim.

[fast_eddy 712]

Oh nice one... I'll have a double

[x11r 386]

James , Most of us hardened X11 riders that know our bikes inside out tend to ride with the chain slacker than recommended as we have all noticed vibration coming through the drive train when riding 2 up , so if you think your chain is a bit slack then leave it , If your attempting to tighten the chain with the swing arm extended ie sat on a main stand then you are adjusting it to correct tension at its most slack position , once the bike goes down on its wheels you have tightened the chain , then add the weight of a person or two and whoooo too tight , it sounds like you have induced your vibration or wobble through over tightening the chain , get someone heavier than you to sit on it then adjust it , but then add 5MM to the slackness and you will be OK.

A bit long winded but I hope it helps, John

Edited July 3, 2010 by x11r

[Guest tinhook]

judging by what you have told me, i think my chain was probably ok as it was, it was a new c&s at the 12000 mile service. i had used the nice gauge on the swing arm & it said i needed a new chain, i guess honda rely on plums like me to keep their mechanics busy! thanks guys, i owe eddy a single malt & now owe my wife an orgasm, whatever one of those are! jim.

[Guest photosniper]

Hi lads,

Just a question: when adjusting the drive chain I (or some1 with the same weight like me) have to sit on the bike and the chain have to have 2-3 cm space isn't it?

[Guest photosniper]

Second question: I have to change my chain kit (more than 60k) and I'd like to ask some1 about the CBR 1100 XX chain kit. Theoretically the X11 have the 110/17/43 front/rear sprockets and the XX have 110/17/44. I know I will loose power to gain speed but do I risk anything else changing the sprockets?

[Guest Amigo]

Your speedo will be incorrect! It's been a while since I messed about with sprocket sizes, but I think a larger rear sprocket makes the speedo read slow. Easiest way to check it is with a satnav, if it's enough out to cause concern, you could use a speedohealer (they're around £85, google speedohealer).

[Guest photosniper]

I was looking for the chain kit and it's funny the difference:

The chain kit at cmsnl.com is 261 Euro (honda original part) , at louis.de 178 Euro (Regina) and 220 euro (DID)

I understand the Honda's policy about the price but this time I will buy dte D.I.D. chain kit.

Somebody have a "HowToDo" manual to change the chain and the sprocket?

[Maintenanceman 206]

I was looking for the chain kit and it's funny the difference:

The chain kit at cmsnl.com is 261 Euro (honda original part) , at louis.de 178 Euro (Regina) and 220 euro (DID)

I understand the Honda's policy about the price but this time I will buy dte D.I.D. chain kit.

I bought Honda original kit when i changed my set, came with DID chain and Honda sprockets.

Main reason for Honda kit was that front sprocket with those rubbers.

My guide with chains is that little bit too much slack is ok, but NEVER too tight.

[Guest photosniper]

I bought Honda original kit when i changed my set, came with DID chain and Honda sprockets.

Main reason for Honda kit was that front sprocket with those rubbers.

My guide with chains is that little bit too much slack is ok, but NEVER too tight.

So you mean I should buy the HOP chain kit instead the D.I.D. because the rubbers worths the 41 Euro difference?

[Maintenanceman 206]

I bought Honda original kit when i changed my set, came with DID chain and Honda sprockets.

Main reason for Honda kit was that front sprocket with those rubbers.

My guide with chains is that little bit too much slack is ok, but NEVER too tight.

So you mean I should buy the HOP chain kit instead the D.I.D. because the rubbers worths the 41 Euro difference?

I would pay that 41e for those rubbers. Maybe it would annoy afterwards to feel those vibrations and think that it is because i was saving money on wrong place

Chain was DID anyway.

Edited August 8, 2011 by Maintenanceman

[Guest photosniper]

I would pay that 41e for those rubbers. Maybe it would annoy afterwards to feel those vibrations and think that it is because i was saving money on wrong place

Chain was DID anyway.

Cheers mate! I will order the HOP kit.

By the way: is there some "How To Do Yourself" about the changing the chain kit?

Edited August 9, 2011 by photosniper

[Guest photosniper]

Hi lads,

I still waiting for the "How To Do Yourself" about the changing the chain kit...

Eddy? Or some1 else?

[fast_eddy 712]

Good luck with that then!

When you find out how to do it... take notes and pictures and write one yourself.

[x11r 386]

Well Tibor the good news is , If you dont have a chain splitter you can get the chain off without splitting it , you have to remove the l/h silencer , sprocket cover , l/h footrest plate , then undo the front sprocket center bolt , this all needs to be done before removing the rear wheel as you need someone with their foot on the brake to undo the sprocket center bolt "unless you have an impact gun".

Then the sprocket will slide off with the chain and you can then remove it from the rear wheel with the chain in tact.

Remove the rear wheel and change the sprocket.

Clean everything with parafin or a good degreaser , Inspect the rubber chain slider on the swing arm and replace if you think it is worn too badly.

The reverse to reasemble it all but remember to slacken the chain adjusters right off .

And also your new chain will need to have the soft link assembled before fitting the chain , If your not sure about this get it done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Good luck , but if your in any doubts about doing any of this , get it done by a bike mechanic.

Hope this helps John

PS if you need torque figures etc they can be found in the manual , If you become a benefactor you can download it.

[Guest photosniper]

Thanks lads,

so I will ask a mechanic to do that change and I will take the notes...

[Maintenanceman 206]

Thanks lads,

so I will ask a mechanic to do that change and I will take the notes...

If he let you....

I wouldnt like if someone would take photos or notes when i am changing his C&S set at my work

Edited September 12, 2011 by Maintenanceman