Engine lock nut socket

[Guest mcfly998]

Hi all,

I'm planning on dropping the engine out of the bike over the winter, to get the frame powdercoated.

I'll need a locknut socket to get the engine bolts out, but Honda want the thick end of £50 for one. Does anyone know where I can get one at a more reasonable price? I've already checked the auction site and Jaws motorcycles. If I can't find a cheap one, I might have a go at making one out of an old socket, if anyone has done this in the past can you let me have any tips you might have.

Cheers guys

Martyn

[Guest JamesCates]

Check these sites out - a lot cheaper than £50. Good luck and let us know, I'll be dropping my engine out, too.

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&q=locknut+socket&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=2-vxSra8Lo2ZjAeNgqWXDg&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CB4QrQQwAw

http://www.toolfetch.com/axle-nut-sockets.shtml

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-wheel-bearing-locknut-socket

[Guest mcfly998]

Thanks for the links James - how's things?

I've not been able to find one that'll fit the engine mount (31mm), but I think I'll fettle one up with an old socket and an angle grinder.

I've spotted another issue-ette though. When tightening the locknut back up to the right torque, the manual says to use an allen key to stop the internal bolt moving. The allen key goes through the lock nut socket (which means that you can't use a torque wrench on the socket), and it shows a torque SPANNER being used on the Honda tool to torque up the lock nut (it's got a hex profile).

See page 225 of the manual, to see what I mean (pic attached).

I've asked member X11R how he managed it when he powdercoated his frame. If anyone else has done this maybe they can let us know how they did it, as the Honda tool, and a torque spanner would add £100 to the project.

I'm wondering if I should just ignore the bit about using the allen key.

Anyway, take it easy

Martyn

[Guest JamesCates]

Doing OK, Martyn. How are you? Aside form getting colder, that is - means some good time in the shop and tinkering for me.

Sounds like a real pain, this engine removal deal. £100 just to use something once seems a lot. My guess is you won't be able to do it without the allen key - it'll probably spin inside the socket and never tighten. I wonder if you can use a socket with a spanner until it feels nice and snug, then it will be tight enough to tighten with a torque wrench?

Looking at the pic, I would think you could construct one using a socket and welding a nut onto it. Then all you'd need to buy is the torque spanner. May be more hassle than the money is worth, in the end, though.

Some of the sites I looked at looked like the sockets had 2 sizes on them (one on each end), so you could also get one the right size and a torque spanner to fit the other end. This will certainly be interesting...

Hopefully X11R will get back to you. I'd really like ot know what to expect before messing things up.

Good luck and take care.

[Guest mcfly998]

Hi James

I'm fine thanks, but it's been chucking it down all week so not had the bike out, seems to be turning for the better though so might be able to get out on it over the weekend.

As the weather's been bad, I've been fettling in the garage and have come up with a couple of tools that I hope will do the job. I've attached a pic.

I used a dremel to cut the tangs into the spcket, then welded an M18 nut onto the end. I have a rarely used 27mm spanner, which fits the nut, and I've put a bolt through it and welded the nut on the other side. I should be able to use a normal torque wrench on the bolt, and so torque up the socket/nut combo. It doesn't have to take a vast amount of torque (around 50 odd nm) so I think this will hold up ok.

So I'm ready to start the stripdown, I'll probably start towards the backend of the month, or a bit later if the weather take a turn for the better.

What are you dropping the engine out for? Are you powdercoating too? We can compare the bits that we have left over once we've both finished...

Take it easy

Martyn

[Kenko 335]

Best of luck with your strip down Martyn, beats watching telly hands down. :lol:

[fast_eddy 712]

Take some piccies for your gallery or to create a blog!

[x11r 386]

Martyn Ive sent you a pm , Lads I made a perfectly fitting socket for the castellated nuts , I made it with a hole through the middle to take an Allen key for holding the through bolt and used a crowfoot spanner with my torque wrench to tighten up I made a spare that Ive offered to Martyn but if you lads want to post it to each other then feel free to use it but leave a post on here as to who is in possession of it ?

To remove and put the engine in I put blocks of 4x4 wood under the engine as the cutaway for the exhaust is approx 4 inches then removed the frame from the engine , then the reverse to rebuild.

Edited November 8, 2009 by x11r

[Guest JamesCates]

Good info here, everyone. I'm nearly convinced to not drop the engine now.

Martyn, I was going to drop it as part of a rebuild I'm planning over the winter. As long as it's apart, anyway, I fiogured I may as well. I'm smoothign out the scratches and am going to have the frame repainted. I've got over 30K miles on it, so wanted to check the valve clearances on the top and then strip/clean/repaint the bottom of the engine. Figured it would all be easier to do it with the engine out. Now I may decide to do it differently.

I also have some mods/personalizing I want to do to it. I'll keep you posted as to how it's going 9or not going).

John, I may ask you about the tools in a couple of months. Depends on how it all looks once I get it apart.

I'm getting excited about getting into it and want to make sure it's all done by spring, latest to ride again.

[Guest JamesCates]

Good to hear it worked out so easily. Maybe I will end up pulling/dropping mine, after all. I'll let you know if it was that easy for me, too.