Headrace bearings and how to get at the air filter.

[fast_eddy 712]

Hi all, I've done a bit of a tutorial on the quick and dirty method of greasing your head-stock bearings. Read it several times and don't even think about it if you don't have the tools and a little bit of skill.

Go get your spanners out!

[fast_eddy 712]

Quick Head Bearing Grease on the Honda X11 - from Fast Eddy.

I have had several x11oc members email me to ask about greasing the Head Race Bearings on the Honda X11. To assist them I took a few photo's the last time I did it.
This is the quick service method of achieving this, without needing to remove the forks.

Place the bike on its mainstand and remove the Top Bridge cover (plastic cover between the handlebars).

Remove the seat and remove the two bolts securing the rear of the petrol tank and wiggle it towards the rear of the bike to free its front mounting. Rest the tank back on the frame rails and (loosely) re-fit the rear bolts. Support the front of the tank on a suitable prop to give clear access to the headstock area (and the AIR FILTER). (photo 1)

 

Remove the instrument pod and carefully rest it in front of the headlight on its cable. Support each end of the handlebars on straps and secure them to a convenient roof beam in your workshop - I hope you have some!
Undo the 30mm nut on the steering stem and slightly loosen the four fork pinch bolts .
Place a car-jack under the front of the engine (use a wooden block between) and just take the weight of the bike.
Remove the two small bolts from the HISS and headlight support arms and let the headlight and its arms move forward. (photo 2)

 

Jack-up the front of the engine until the front wheel is clear of the ground by a couple of inches. Be very careful not to tip the bike over!!!
Loosen the four fork pinch bolts properly and the forks should slide through the triple clamps until the wheel touches the floor. You may need to assist them by slightly wiggling them back and forth.

With the forks dropped out of the way you can now wiggle the top yoke free from the steering stem complete with the handlebars still attached! Alter your straps as you do this to lift the whole lot clear. Don't let the Brake Master Cylinder become unstable or air may enter your brake system!!!
You can now access the bearing lock-ring after bending the tabs on the lock-washer out of the way.

Undo and remove the lock-ring and washer and then undo the bearing top cap to gain access to the upper bearing race (photo 3).



You can now slide the lower-yoke down the fork legs to gain access to the lower bearing race (photo 4).

Make sure the bearings and their races show no signs of wear (replace them if necessary) and work plenty of grease into them and then pack them tightly with it. I use a High Melting point grease to cope with the heat from the engine. Re-assemble in reverse order to removal and torque the bearing cap to approx 20 ft-lb.

Do this before your bike has done 8,000 miles or you will probably need new bearings by 12,000!!!


I hope this helps you save the fortune that it costs to have this done by your dealer! It shouldn't be attempted if you have no mechanical skill nor the proper tools - you have been warned!

[fast_eddy 712]

Wow, I found the old photos that I did for this on an old HDD. So I've added them back!

[Mick 162]

Excellent, well done Eddy.

[fast_eddy 712]

September 2003 when I posted that, before we even had the original forum, blimey 10 years.... whoosh! tempus fugit!

[Mick 162]

It does indeed Eddy.