AK1011

Radiator guard rusted bolts

9 posts in this topic

Hello all!

 

I'm guessing others have faced this issue, considering the placement of the bolts.

 

The lower ones facing the front (holding the front rad cover on) and the bottom ones (holding the bottom of the side rad covers on) have rusted in place and the heads are rounded off. Looking at the rust, looks like a previous owner has rounded it off.

 

I want to take the side cover off to flush coolant and everything but can't without taking the rad covers off.

 

The usual rusted bolt options of heat and impact aren't gonna work here...and I've tried soaking the bolts (from the top and the bottom) in penetrant spray.

 

Any ideas or previous success stories?

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Try hack-sawing a slot across the top and use a big flat-head screwdriver.

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Thats my current plan, but thought i'd ask here first if anyone had any experience with this issue.

 

Worried that a hack saw might slip and damage the plastic. A little rotary tool would've been perfect.

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I have the same issue at the moment. I’ve tried soaking with Kano Aerokroil twice, still not budging and that is good quality stuff. I will try again but fear I may need to resort to more extreme measures. It doesn’t seem like a very good location for those bolts given exposure to salt from the roads etc.

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The front bolts screw into capsulated Nuts in the brackets bolted to the end of the radiator so the use force needs to be done carefully , the actual screws have an M6 thread but the part that goes through the plastic is about 8.3 diameter so drilling the head off would take a sizeable drill and the heat wouldnt do the plastics any good ! , I would drill into it with a 3mm drill and use an easy out such as a snap on one or sealey one , The lower bolt although of the same design screws into a folded tin plate mounted on the front rad cover if you can get the front bolts undone you should be able to remove the whole assy and then tackle the lower bolts from the inside, Just bear in mind that these plastics are very brittle mostly obsolete and if you can find replacements not very cheep ! .

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The location does seem really bad.

 

So, I've had a crack at getting the panels out today. 

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/1100-MOTO/CB/2000/CB1100SFY/Frame/RADIATOR-GRILL--SIDE-PANELS/13MCCY41/F__3400/2/576

You can get to the bolts (#10 on that link) that hold a coupla brackets (#3 and #4) on to the radiator with a spanner (10mm). It takes a while and is fiddly but you can get the bolts out. Removing as many of the radiator guard bolts (#11) helps with access and visibilty.

 

I did maybe get lucky in that the bolts weren't super corroded or anything so came out. A ratcheting spanner might help (I couldnt find mine).

 

I've now sprayed some penetrant from the back and have left them to soak. I have a bit more confidence to attack the rusted bolts now that I can change the orientation of the panels to my convenience. 

 

Oh, and left side is harder to get at than the right.

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So, ended up having to drill the stuck bolts out.

I used a 2.5mm drill to get all the way through, and then worked up to a 5.5mm, this basically cut the shoulder and head off the threaded part of the bolt. 

I did end up drilling into the captive nuts but have enough thread left for bolts to grab on to.

 

Looking back, I should've just used a 5-6mm drill bit to drill through/past the shoulder and not drill all the way through the bolt.

 

Gonna order a set of stainless bolts with little sleeves to act as the shoulders and fairing clips to replace the nut at the bottom fixing.

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Excellent Job , If the captive nuts let go you could always grind them off and get new ones soldered or brazed on ! Got to be in the worst place ever once they start rounding out , Ive always put a smear of copper grease on mine so haven't had the bother , although I did replace them with new ones a couple of years ago but that was because of them looking fairly scabby.

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Thanks!

 

Yea, One of the bottom c clip/captive nuts is too far gone. I'm planning on jb welding a new nut on the to clip. 

 

And yea, drench the fixings in copper grease!

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