Posted February 13, 2020 Hi All I am after a bit of advice. I have not long purchased a 2002 X11 the ignition barrel is worn out/broken and need replacing, after various internet searches I can find replacement lock sets but they all are marked 2000-2001 I have even emailed the sellers and they are unsure if the sets will fit the 2002 model. Any help, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Mac 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted February 13, 2020 Problem solved, spoke to nice chap Theo at Honda.com and lock set is same as 2001 for the simple reason there is no 2002 model, Theo did a vin check which confirmed what he was saying. Happy days 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted February 14, 2020 Glad you got that sorted. If possible can you post pics of your progress with fitting the new parts? 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted February 17, 2020 Yes of course, I am Just waiting for china to start shipping stuff again (the Lock set spare keys and transpoders) once I have the lock set I will also do the AMB top yoke, bars grips and bar end weights (typical German quality, I can see why they are rated so well) I am also adding one of These. The trouble is I am in a race against time as I have to have my garage pulled down and rebuilt, it's going to be touch and go. 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) On 2/17/2020 at 15:22, Bmac109 said: Yes of course, I am Just waiting for china to start shipping stuff again (the Lock set spare keys and transpoders) once I have the lock set I will also do the AMB top yoke, bars grips and bar end weights (typical German quality, I can see why they are rated so well) I am also adding one of These. The trouble is I am in a race against time as I have to have my garage pulled down and rebuilt, it's going to be touch and go. I have the ABM and the tail tidy. ABM=superb. Tail tidy will give you a headache; the rear pops out. It does make the bike look 10x better I connected the tail tidy with the rear plastic to keep it together; cracked the rear plastic in time... so now I need a new rear. If you weld a plate at the end of the subframe to screw the tail tidy to you'd have a solution. This is what I'm planning to do, but haven't gotten around to it. Let me know if you have the same problems in time. Don't keep anything under your seat tough, if it pops out everything is gone and you won't notice until you park. Edited February 29, 2020 by Space 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted March 1, 2020 If I get around to welding a plate I'll put a pic here how/what did it. The idea was to do the welding this winter, but I'm driving around again so probably will do it next winter. The way it's built just isn't right to hold the weight of a number plate, especially when it gets some pressure from the wind. It popped open about 3 times, then I looked at pics of people that had the same undertail and noticed some had put a screw at the end. So I did the same and about a year later I had a a big hole where there was a small one to pass a screw For now I'm driving around with a piece of rubber covering up the hole in the rear plastic and keeping the end together... classy 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted March 1, 2020 23 hours ago, Mick said: Good work so far Nick, any pics? As you can see from the pic; not really good work, but it works... for now 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted March 21, 2020 Hi Nick ... with regards to under tray thank you very much for the heads up on the likely issues and the pictures, fortunately enough I have a bud that is a welder/fabricator (biker too) and he has offered do the modification so that the number plate holder will not be mounted directly to the under tray. My biggest problem is time... this year is already running away. As and when I do it I will take photos and post here. 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted March 23, 2020 On 3/21/2020 at 15:57, Mick said: Look forward to that Nick. Don't hold your breath... I'm good at thinking of solutions, just not at executing them... Or not in a timely fashion anyway. When I grow up I'll get better at this So Mac, time is my excuse as well (also I'm lazy, but let's keep that between us) I'm guessing Mac will put up pics a loooong time before I do. Looking forward to see what a real welder/fabricator will come up with it, probably he'll have a better idea I will have no problem stealing if I ever get to it. 0 Share this post Link to post
Posted August 26, 2020 Hey Mac, I found a solution for the undertail, it doesn't take any welding and is cheap, easy and fast. Since I had some problems with an indicator that kept burning out, I replaced them all with leds, including the indicator box to keep them from hyperflashing. It turned out to be one of the original wires... age isn't doing them any good apperantly But since I had to take everything apart for that I thought might as well fix that undertail problem as well. I hope the pic explains it all... you just add 2 L-profiles to keep it up where the original undertail was fixed At least, that's what I think those 2 holes were for, I really don't remember tbh. And if you want the option to return to stock, get a used original undertail and keep yours intact, because for this one you have to saw the original undertail in half, keeping the part where your battery is and dumping the rest. You'll also won't have a lock on the seat anymore, mine opens with the cable attached to it I keep hidden under the seat. Sorry for the long post, but you might want to take all these things into consideration before installing the undertail. It does look so much better than the original and despite the problems I've had I don't regret doing it. Also: don't mind all the dirt... I like riding more than I do cleaning 0 Share this post Link to post