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Guest matt25011774

what oil does it take

34 posts in this topic

whats with all theis 5w 40 and 10 w 20 stuff? ok im goign for fully sutnhetic stuff does it matter what wattage it is?anyoen got any cheap websites i can order it from and do i need four litres for an oil change? ive found 5w40 rock oil fully synth for 39.49 is that a good price?

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10w40 is the recomended but 5w40 should be ok , Halfords do Castrol fully synth

Castrol Power1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Oil 4L

Cat. code: 966200-0

Castrol Power1 Racing 4T Fully Synthetic 10W-40 Oil 4L @ 32.99

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4 Litres should be fine Matt. I'm sure the x11 takes 3.8 litres at oil & filter change.

I allways use Motul semi synth, usually priced around

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I always use Rock Oil fully synthetic - it's not cheap.

Pete

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Read Mark & learn :o

http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhitePaper.aspx

Good info in this takes some digesting, for the non technical just go to the last couple of pages. Well worth printing off for a good read, your knowlage will grow on the subject, you may even be able to annoy your mates about their lack of knowlage & miss conceptions on the subject.

I use amsoil.

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I use amsoil.

Isn't that a Hemorrhoid cream or something?

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Never tried rubbing it there, may work tho its good stuff.

Can send you wee sample if you care to try, no need for a in depth article on its performance like! Just a yes or no will do.

Of course I myself do not advocate such a use of this lubricant & any trial is entirely at the users own risk. :)

Edited by wayne
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Can send you wee sample if you care to try

Now I don't see how this is applicable? Having a bit of a burning sensation are we? No, don't send me any... I only pretend to be a doctor!

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3.8 litres at oil change with new filter fitted is correct, advisable to use an engine flush at each oil change, especially if you are going from semi to full synth.

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Read Mark & learn :o

http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhitePaper.aspx

Good info in this takes some digesting, for the non technical just go to the last couple of pages. Well worth printing off for a good read, your knowlage will grow on the subject, you may even be able to annoy your mates about their lack of knowlage & miss conceptions on the subject.

I use amsoil.

Interesting reading....what i can understand!!:doh:

Seems the motul oil isn't much kop then, that's quite alarming to read actually, i allways thought it was ok. But then again i confess to knowing absolutely f*ck all about different oil's.

So when i change my oil, what then is the best to use? semi or fully synth? As Pete mentions about flushing it, how is that done?

Hmm, need to do the oil now.:doh:

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As Pete mentions about flushing it, how is that done?

You just need to get some flushing fluid from local motor factors or halfords it`s about

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I really don't think you would need to use flushing oil in an X11, or any bike that has had the recommended oil changes. Flushing oil dislodges sludge and other deposits which can find it's way through bearings etc. I've heard of car engines destroyed by the stuff.

A better (IMO) way is to drain the old oil, then use a cheap oil, run it up for a bit, then change along with filter.

Best thing to do is change the oil more regularly than the recommendation, then there is never a need to flush.

Pete

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My thoughts exactly Pete , have never used flushing oil as todays oils have detergents in them so as you say changing the oil more frequently should do it , if flushing oil costs a fiver or so just put the cost towards more oil changes.

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That SAE 5w40 or 10w30 means (simple way to say) Number before W is how running oil is in cold weather, number after W means how stiff it is in hot conditions (how much heat it can take)

For example 0W30 is a winter oil and 10W50 is a summer oil, there is some racing oils that are like 5W60 and they are good in hot conditions.

Maybe best would be 0W60...

I use BelRay 10W40 semi synthetic bike oil, because we have it in big barrel at my work, next barrel would be Yamaha or Honda oem oil, so then i will use them, doesnt cost me anything to change oil and filter in my bike.

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I thought full synthetic oil could cause clutch slip problems on wet clutches? I have aways used normal good quality mineral oil. I feel changing the stuff more often is better than using expensive fully synthetic that lets you leave it in longer.

I tend to change the oil with decent normal oil like castrol GTX etc every 3k and filter at 6K 15 minute job..sorted.

I'v never kept a bike long enough to actully notice any difference to be honest. My x11 will be lucky to have 10K put on it by me before the next owner takes over. :)

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I change my fully synthetic and filter every 3k. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine, so it pays to use the best. Car oils will cause slip, but motorcycle specific won't.

Pete

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Again , I agree with pete , castrol GTX isnt designed for a high reving motorcycle engine with a wet clutch , Read the info on all fully synth motorcycle oils they are designed to be used with wet clutches and will state otherwise if they are not , I thought castrol GTX disapeared with the Austin Montego !

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Last summer at my work we had two or three bikes suffering a slipping clutch, two of them had used that GTX, and one somethin else (cheap car engine oil).

Those two were Yamaha R1 and Honda CBR Fireblade, funny that they want to play with these things and "save money".

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I don't put much faith in manufacturers claims when it comes to additives in oil, diesel and petrol sold at the pumps claim to have detergents in too, is there any conclusive evidence that sugests these things are really beneficial. Every time i have changed my engine oil without flushing it has been the same colour as it was when it went in. If the detergents used are effective where does the sludge come from and why is it not disolved and caught in the filter.

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Hmm, interesting opinions on the flushing side.:confused:

Ok then, if i was to continue using semi synth oil, what is the best make?

As mentioned i am using the motul stuff but do Silkolene, Amsoil ect do semi synth?

Cheers.;)

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Everyone has their own favourite brand, but if you choose any recognised make you can't go far wrong (must use bike specific though). Race Bike teams tend to use the oil that sponsors them, but safe to say that any you see being used in the paddock will work fine.

I use Rock Oil fully synthetic, as this oil definately makes the gear change smoother. They also do a semi synthetic, which isn't much cheaper really. Plenty folk like silkolene, and they do a semi I believe.

Pete

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I used to have a mate with a Yamaha FJ1200. All he ever used was cheap car oil from the day he bought it with about 8000 miles on it. He used to travel all around Europe, and commute to work on it every day. Last time I saw him a couple of years back, his FJ had done about 86000 miles without a single breakdown, & not a hint of smoke from the exhaust. It does make you wonder. :confused:

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for what its worth, I was told if you do go to fully synthetic there is no turning back and you have to stay with it (dont know if thats correct or not).

I use semi synthetic silkoline and have never had any problems.

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I heard the same thing, not sure if it was here on the Forum, or from somebody else.

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